Smart Guide Italy: Naples and Campania
Published by Smart Guides
Smashwords Edition
Copyright 2012 Alexei Cohen
Discover other titles in the Smart Guide series:
Rome and Lazio
Florence and Tuscany
Venice and Veneto
Milan and Lombardy
Turin, Piedmont and Aosta Valley
Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples
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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTIONG NAPLES AND CAMPANIA
FOREWARD
Naples has a reputation and a lot of it isn’t good. Even Italians have come to associate the city with trash, crime and counterfitting but to assume Naples is all bad would be selling it short and overlooking a lot worth seeing and experiencing. First of all there are the Neapolitans themselves who are a breed apart and seem to live life differently than everyone else. Sure they don’t always stop at traffic lights or stand in lines but they do tend to smile a lot and if GDP were measured in laughter the city would be a finantial superpower. Then there is pizza. Any city that can claim to have invented pizza can’t be all bad. Add to that a magnicent position overlooking a bay and backed by a volcano and it soon becomes evident how damaging stereotypes can be. Once you’ve explored the historic streets and sampled the pastries you may start to think everything you heard about the city was heresay. Naples certainly isn’t perfect, it’s a city of contradictions, but you have to see it to understand those contraditions.
Of course there’s more to Campania than Naples and any traveler with the time and gumption should attempt to experience as much of this unique region as possible. Those looking for antiquities will find them in Herculaneum, Pompeii and Paestum. The first two were nearly perfectly preserved by the eruption of Vesuvious and provide an idea of what life was like 2,000 years ago. The third sight is even older, more remote and a reminder that before their were Romans their were Greeks. Now, if history isn’t you’re thing don’t worry. Campania has a wonderful coastline and enough picturesque islands to please both romantics and naturalists. South of Naples you’ll find a succession of small villages and larger towns that each have their own particularities and have yet to surrender to the onslaught of globalization.
Accommodation of course is always a big issue for travelers and that’s why we recently launched Smart Guide Italy B&B (smartguideitaly.bbitalia.it). Smart Guide travelers can now stay in the comfort of an Italian home, get unique local perspective and save. Enjoy the journey!
Alexei Cohen
Series Editor
INTRODUCING NAPLES AND CAMPANIA
The energy of Naples is palpable, more like that of New York than any other Italian city. Its streets may be crisscrossed with clotheslines strung with laundry, but Naples it is still a major metropolis and the largest city in Southern Italy. Summer heightens the theater of life here, when three million Neapolitans seem to simultaneously live outdoors.
Naples is wealthy in artistic creativity. Artisans and manufacturers have been major players on the world stage since the Etruscans. Even the black market economy, where those skills have periodically been employed in major counterfeiting operations, is an ancient tradition. Upon arrival by train, the city exudes a certain lawlessness. Modern Naples remains choked by political corruption and organized crime that deprive its citizens of basic services. Garbage can go uncollected for weeks, a scandal that repeatedly plagues the city in neighborhoods that are less dependent on tourism and leads to improvised bonfires. Despite these obstacles, artistic life flourishes, perhaps propelled by the same fatalistic energy that life next to an active volcano like Vesuvius generates.
The region of Campania possesses incredible variety. Getting out of Naples is easy and generally great fun. Emperors did it for centuries. Nearby Capua was home to the world’s largest amphitheater until the Coliseum was built in Rome. Today trains, buses, and boats take you easily and efficiently to some of the world’s most spectacular scenery. Caserta has its royal palace gardens designed to match Versailles in glory and size. Palace architect Vanvitelli took good note of the ancients. His soaring triple-tiered aqueduct still powers the Reggia gardens’ gushing waterfall. It spans roads that lead to enchanting small towns, wineries, forests, and fresh mozzarella.
Benevento, its dark green forested hills full of mysteries and legends, has Roman ruins that include Emperor Trajan’s triumphal arch and ancient and contemporary theaters; after Naples, it is the region’s most important center for contemporary art. The ruins of Pompeii open an eerie window on everyday Roman life more completely and dramatically than any other site in the world. Yet, it’s only one of many archeological parks in Campania that reveals ancient temples, villas, mosaics, wall paintings, and other treasures. Recreation abounds for anyone who enjoys hiking, sailing, swimming, and just about any other sport. You may also find prices in most of Campania more reasonable than in wealthier regions in the north.
The islands and Campania’s dramatic coast have attracted the rich and famous for centuries. Capri was Emperor Tiberius’ island playground long before the Hollywood jet set, European intellectuals, and writers like Graham Greene arrived. Ischia and Procida on the other hand have clung to their low-key island ways. Russian ballet legend Rudolph Nureyev even managed to buy his own island here. Ravello was author Gore Vidal’s beloved base for decades. The breathtaking views along the Amalfi Coast are are perfect for finding inspiration.
A carefree and happy-go-lucky attitude reigns in Campania, so jump in and enjoy it. The right attitude allows you to escape intact and enjoy the mirth while you’re here.
TOP STOPS
Museo Archeologico
The Museo Archeologico in Naples is one of the world’s best archeological museums featuring one of the most comprehensive collections of Greco-Roman artifacts in the world. Spend an afternoon exploring the vast collection of gems, mosaics, frescoes, and ancient Egyptian artifacts.
Mount Vesuvius
Vesuvius, a mountain within a mountain, has generated fear and awe since Naples was settled. The volcano’s most famous eruption in a.d. 79 covered Pompeii and nearby towns with ash and debris. Creator and destroyer, its fertile slopes are ideal for grapes and other crops. This ominous, ever present phenomenon has left an imprint on the inhabitants below who sometimes live as if there’s no tomorrow.
Pompeii
Pompeii, the site of the remains of a port city in ancient Rome, is one of Italy’s most visited attractions. The site is vast, but make sure to save some time to view the beautiful frescoes in the Villa dei Misteri.
Benevento
Land of legends and ancient battles, Benevento is Campania’s hidden gem. The breezy hill town has a magnificent triumphal Arch of Trajan, theaters in ruin, and seven modern ones. Its forests and mountainsides are stitched with vineyards, a reminder that this is the heart of Campania winemaking country.
Reggia di Caserta
Designed to match the glory of Versailles, Caserta’s royal palace is a regal sight. Its lavishly decorated interior is fit for a king. The expanse of gardens enchants visitors with grand paths to the dramatic waterfall that cascades into pools and finely manicured grounds ruled by mythical gods and goddesses.
Grotta Azzurra
Although it seems to be illuminated by its own light source, the intensely bright Grotta Azzurra in Capri is a dazzling phenomenon of refracted light. The entrance to the cave is tricky, so part of the fun is flattening out on a rowboat in order to enter the grotto.
Ravello
Ravello’s location on the Amalfi Coast provides both seclusion and spectacular views. The picturesque town has Moorish influences, charming cobblestone streets, and an exciting performing arts scene. The summer music festival should not to be missed if you’re in town.
Paestum
The ancient Magna Grecia town of Paestum dedicated to Poseidon, god of the sea, is a reminder that some of the best Greek ruins are in Italy. Three temples impress with their size and near-perfect condition. They offer intimacy too with curious wall paintings that show divers in fine Olympic form.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
The first thing to keep in mind is not to skip over Naples. Tour groups ignore it as they pile in to Pompeii, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast, preferring to avoid chaos. The city’s treasures are rich and it makes an attractive base for exploring the famous islands nearby. Transportation is easy and a joy in itself to discover. Capri is a natural day-trip and even half a day will give you an idea of how idyllic life can be. If island prices are too steep, stay in Naples, where you can enjoy greater style and luxury for less money. Ferry across during the day and return to the city for some nightlife.
Caserta’s palace can be visited in less than two hours, but why rush through its enchanting garden? Vesuvius is the sight of a regional park and makes a good half-day excursion. If you have the courage you can walk around the rim of the volcano’s crater. It’s set in a park, which can provide days of hiking and the opportunity to spot rare species of flora and fauna. A tour of ancient Pompeii takes a minimum of two or three hours, but that only allows for a quick glance of many sights. If you’re not on a tight schedule don’t rush and bring a picnic so you can dine as the Romans once did.
Decide what activities and areas you would like to emphasize—whether art, nature, architecture, shopping, sports, or people-watching—but allow enough time to savor the experience once you’re there. With a little extra time, you could even take sailing, dancing, or cooking classes.
History
Even before the Greeks arrived, Oscans, Samnites, and Etruscans were roaming the territory and setting up major trading centers. The Greeks founded Neapolis (New City), where the Siren Parthenope landed after she was rejected by Odysseus. Greeks first settled around Cumae, then Romans invaded and used its deep harbor for trading, military maneuvers, and as a playground for its rich and famous.
The Byzantine era re-linked Naples with the East. Later Goths, Saracens, Longobards, and Normans swept through. In the 10th century, the Normans ruled. The French Angevins and Spanish Aragonese established dynasties that made Naples a major center of power and patron of the arts. Bourbon rule began in 1734 under Charles III. Some locals blame events soon after the unification of Italy in 1860 for Naples’ demise. In 1861, King Vittorio Emanuele was installed and dealt a crippling blow to the city when the treasury was moved to Turin. Despite plagues, volcano eruptions, overpopulation, congestion, invasions, political corruption, and organized crime, Naples still moves at an energetic beat and creativity flows in abundance.
NAPLES
Travelers on the Grand Tour turned Naples into a must-see destination. During the 18th and 19th centuries it was more popular than Rome, Florence, and even Venice. The city was a magnet for the artistic, sophisticated, worldly, or just curious traveler. Naples still has more castles, museums, restaurants, churches, and shops than you can fit into a month. Once a recreation ground for emperors and headquarters for sovereigns, the original city by the bay has entertained visitors for a few thousand years.
No city in Italy, or perhaps the world, is considered more musical than Naples, where song bursts forth now and again in the streets. San Carlo reigns supreme for opera. Naples’ sunny disposition blends easily with its fatalistic, dark humor as revealed in its plays, dialect, and street scenarios. Shoppers will find streets that have plenty of pizzazz in window displays. Gourmets prize its cuisine, among Italy’s best, down to its bargain street food. Wines come from vineyards in the nearby hills, mountains, and volcanic slopes that result in flavors that range from subtle and light to elegant and spicy. A world-class transportation system moves about complex terrain with great efficiency. You can go from palace to volcano, from archeological museum to steaming fumaroles in minutes.
Even Italians sometimes give warnings about getting around in Naples. Generally, apply precautions that are relevant to any big city in the world. Be attentive of your purse and personal belongings. This is not the city to wear a Rolex, it’s a city to dress casually, elegantly, or even eccentrically without wearing objects that scream “money.” Arrive unfettered by luxuries that you have to mind. The fun of Naples is to plunge right in and enjoy its color and vibrancy.
SIGHTS
Since the city is built on different heights of a mountain, an ideal map of Naples would be in 3-D. Naples’ tourist attractions are spread out, so the best way to approach the city is on foot, making use of its efficient public transportation system. Some sights like Castel Nuovo, Piazza Plebiscito, and the San Carlo Opera are near the Bay of Naples and the port, while others like Certosa di San Martino and Museo di Capodimonte are up on the steep mountainside.
Fortunately, you can hop the funicular to move uphill and downhill quickly and get a sense of how the neighborhoods are laid out. You can then take one of the buses that wind around the hills in the direction you need to go. The subway does not serve all sections of the city, but it covers a vast territory. Unless you are very comfortable with driving in Naples, leave the car in a locked garage.
The city is multi-layered in other ways too. It’s built on Greek, Roman, and medieval foundations, so don’t forget to take a tour of subterranean Naples. For anyone spending several days in the city the ArteCard is a great way to see more and pay less.
Palazzo del Municipio and Piazza del Plebiscito
Piazza del Plebiscito, one of Europe’s grand squares, is only a short distance from Naples’ port at Molo Beverello. Its dignified expanse is embraced on one side by the 1817 church of San Francesco di Paola, whose proportions recall Rome’s Pantheon. The Royal Palace on the opposite side dates from 1600. A pinkish orange facade adds warmth to the square and accentuates its majestic proportions.