Walking Guide to the Camino de Santiago
History, Culture, Architecture
by Gerald Kelly
Copyright
2012 Gerald Kelly
Smashwords Edition
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How to use this guideHow to calculate distances
Places with pilgrim accommodation have a heading like this:
22km / 5½ hrs Zubiri
The number on the left is the distances in kilometres from the last place with pilgrim accommodation. To its right is an estimate of the time needed to walk that distance based on a person walking 4km per hour. 4km is almost exactly 2½ miles. This is an estimate based on an average over the entire day over average terrain. Many factors will affect this figure, principal among them: ascents, descents, mud, wind, injury and fatigue. (Of course many factors will influence it upwards too, principal among them: what you feel in your heart.)
Use these numbers when calculating the length of stages. Other distances given in the text are only indicative. Distances are hostel to hostel if there is only one hostel listed. Otherwise they're an approximation on the midpoint between hostels in a given place.
Format of information
Information is presented in the following text formats:
Information about the route and things you will meet between hostels are given in this format. Distances given in this format should be ignored when calculating distances between hostels. Information about accommodation is given in this format. As is information about locally available services and facilities. Other general background information about a place is given in this format. The following information is given about hostels, example:
Private hostel (24, 10€, March to October) Albergue Zaldiko, on the right after you cross the bridge to enter the village.
This is a private hostel, which sleeps 24, costs 10€ and is open from the beginning of March to the end of October. The first information given is a description of how to find the hostel then the facilities (besides basic ones) it has followed by any comments.
When the Camino splits you will see a divider like this before the description of each branch:
Left route 11km
INFO: The left branch is 11km long and, below, the right branch is 15km long.
Right route 15km
The first hostel after two branches rejoin will not have a distance indicated because the distance to it depends on which branch you took. Instead the distance from the last hostel on a branch to the first after the rejoin is given like this:
12km to Los Arcos
When the two branches rejoin you will see:
Left and right routes rejoin in...
Just before the the place where they rejoin.
Description of the route is shown in this format.
Notes on the information
Hostels are listed in the order in which you will encounter them if you are walking the Camino from east to west. Occasionally (and mostly in Galicia) private hostels operate high-season and low-season pricing. However, there have been instances of the high-season prices being charged in winter and for this reason only the high-season price is given in the guide. There is no clear distinction between a bar and a café in Spain. In this guide the word café is used throughout.
Pilgrim hostels
Unless otherwise stated all pilgrim hostels have the following basic facilities: - running water - hot showers - electricity - beds - toilets The opening dates for accommodation given are as accurate as possible however please bear in mind that, especially in the case of private and small hostels, opening dates vary at the whim of the owner/administrator and many close unannounced during off-peak times.
Placenames
Placenames used in the guide are those most commonly used on the ground. In France the French version is used rather than the Basque (St Jean Pied de Port, or simply St Jean, instead of Donibane-Garazi). Likewise in Navarra, which is bilingual, the Spanish is used (Pamplona instead of Iruña). In Galicia in recent years all new signposting is only in Galician, so names are generally given in that language (Alto do Poio, etc.). Occasionally more than one version of a placename is in common use, in these cases alternatives are given in the heading in descending order of commonness (Finisterre / Fisterra or Roncesvalles / Roncevaux / Orreaga).
Measurement units
All distances are given in the metric system (kilometres and metres) and all times are given in the 24 hour clock (0900 = 9am, 1800 = 6pm). Most people walk an average of 4km an hour.
Drinking water
Drinking fonts and springs are not mentioned because many of them are dry most or all of the year. Stock up on water in towns and villages and don't set off without enough to get you to the next café or hostel.
Number formats
Spain uses the euro, the symbol for which is € after the amount although you will sometimes see it written before the amount (€1, etc.). Numbers are written using a point as the thousand separator and a comma as the decimal separator. Occasionally an apostrophe is used as the decimal separator, 2'25€. Or the euro symbol is used as the decimal separator, 2€25. Just to confuse things further, prices are also sometimes written without the '€' sign and minus trailing zeros: 4,5 or 4'5 = 4,50€. this confusion reflects the fact that there is no official standard for how to write euro amounts. Without wishing to be controversial, the English plural of euro is euro or euros, according to one's personal preference. The same applies to cent and cents. They are always written lower-case, unless at the beginning of a sentence.
The Guide
St Jean Pied de Port / Donibane-Garazi
St John at the Foot of the Pass. However, its original name in Spanish was, Santa Maria Cabo el Puente / St Mary at the End of the Pass. Its name in Basque is Donibane-Garazi / St John of Garazi, which is a reference to the peaks on the next stage of the Camino.
Municipal
hostel (32, 8€ breakfast included) up
rue de la Citadelle near the top of the hill on the left. If it’s
not open ask in the Pilgrims’ Office. Website:
www.aucoeurduchemin.org
Private
hostel (18, 8€, April to September) L’Esprit
du Chemin on
rue de la Citadelle opposite the Pilgrims’ Office. Communal evening
meal, where pilgrims introduce themselves, and breakfast. They can
also do you a picnic to take with you. Very positive reports for this
hostel run by Dutch volunteers. Better to reserve in advance from
their website www.espritduchemin.org
Private
hostel (25, 10€) Sur
le Chemin – Au Chant du Coq on
rue de la Citadelle, just down from the Pilgrims’ Office.
Private
hostel (11, 15€) Refuge
Ultreia at
8 rue de la Citadelle. Kitchen. Breakfast. Run by two ex-pilgrims.
Reservations from their website: www.ultreia64.fr
Private
hostel (20, 12€) Auberge
le Chemin vers l'Etoile on
rue d’Espagne which is down the bottom of rue de la Citadelle.
Laundry facilities, kitchen. They do evening meals and breakfast.
Info: www.votregite.com
Private
hostel (15, 15€) Refuge
Esponda on
Place du Trinquet in the centre of town. Kitchen.
INFO: The town has all the facilities you're likely to need. There is a wide variety of accommodation ranging from hostels to luxury hotels. Many hostels, hotels and guesthouses (Chambres d'Hôte) are on rue de la Citadelle in the old town and the parallel Place du Général de Gaulle about a 10 minute walk from the railway station. Also many restaurants in this area. A town map outside the railway station is useful to get your bearings. The Pilgrims' Office Acceuil St Jacques is also on rue de la Citadelle near the top. They can give you a Credencial, information and advice on weather conditions and help finding accommodation, etc. Open until 2200 in summer. If it's not open ask in the municipal hostel. There's a Champion supermarket and a bank on Avenue du Jaï Alaï, on Place du Général de Gaulle there's a Tourist Information, a pharmacy and a bank.
SIGHTS: The Caminos arriving from points north enter the town at the top of rue de la Citadelle which is the centre of the oldest part of the town and is lined by many ancient buildings some of which have their construction dates and original owners engraved on their façades (sometimes also in Revolutionary dates, 4e AR, 4th year of the Republic). At the top of rue de la Citadelle is the Porte de St. Jacques, the traditional point of entry for pilgrims coming from the north. On one side the Citadelle towers above it on the hill and on the other are good views of the modern town. The Citadelle itself is relatively new, dating from the 17th century, and is a good example of French military architecture from that period. At the bottom of rue de la Citadelle is the Porte d'Espagne with its clocktower, through which pilgrims pass on their way south. This leads on to rue d'Espagne. The church Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont at the bottom end of rue de la Citadelle is Gothic and dates from the 14th century. It is believed to be built on the foundations of an earlier church built by King Sancho VII (el Fuerte/the Strong) in the 13th century. The walls defending the newer part of the town south of the river Nive date from the same construction period as the Citadelle. There's a walkway along the top. One of the oldest buildings is the 12th century Church of St Eulalie whose Romanesque façade can still be seen on the retirement home Toki Eder. The town is build on the banks of the River Nive (Errobi in Basque) and its tributary the Laurhibar.
HISTORY: Situated in the modern French department Pyrénées-Atlantiques, St Jean is also in the ancient Kingdom of Lower Navarra of which it was at one time the capital. The original town was destroyed in 1177 by Richard the Lionheart and was rebuilt on its current site by the kingdom of Navarra. Since then it has been an important stopping point on the road to Santiago. The imposing Château de Mendiguren, which stood on the site of the more recent Citadelle, was, together with the 13th century town walls, an important part of its defensive capacities.
The town changed hands several times down the centuries as French and Spanish kingdoms struggled for supremacy in the region.
During the French Religious Wars (Guerres de Religion) it was the scene of a bloody struggle between Catholics and Protestants.
After the French revolution the Kingdom of Lower Navarra was abolished and the privileges of the local royalty were abolished. During the initial period of revolutionary zeal the town was renamed Nive-Franche.
The railway line from Bayonne was completed in 1889 ending the town's geographic isolation.
There are two routes between St Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles. The right route goes through the valley via Valcarlos and the left route goes over the mountains via Orisson. In winter it's important to ask in St Jean about weather conditions. Both routes are difficult in snow or high winds and the left route is often impassable in winter. In mountainous areas weather conditions can change very quickly.
Leaving St Jean walk down rue de la Citadelle, under the arch at the river and up rue d'Espagne, continuing straight under another arch and up a hill for about 100m until you reach a junction with a small sign on a lamppost indicating the two routes.
Right route 25km / 6¼ hours via Valcarlos. The lower route.
After turning right on to this route continue straight to the main road which you follow to the left for about 500m until there is a signposted turn to the right down a side road. Follow the signs for Valcarlos/Luzaide and Roncevaux (French for Roncesvalles).
10km / 2½ hours to Arnéguy, this village (almost like a Basque Berlin) is divided by the Spanish/French border. Shops, restaurant and cafés.
Entering Navarra and Spain
Between Arnéguy and Valcarlos there are two options either to walk on the road or via the village of Ondarolle. The road is less strenuous but also less attractive.
13km / 3¼ hrs to Valcarlos / Luzaide
Valley of Carlos another name for Charlemagne who passed this way. Its Basque name is Luzaide however officially it is called Luzaide/Valcarlos reflecting its location on the fault-line between multiple cultures.
Municipal hostel (24, 10€ with breakfast) on Plaza de Santiago on the ground floor of the school. Kitchen with microwave and coffee machine. If it’s closed ask in the town hall or Venta Ardandegia or call 948 790 189.
INFO: Shop, cafés, hotels and bank. There's an information point on the right on the main road.
SIGHTS: This area has many fine examples of Basque farmhouses. These distinctive buildings have an area for farm animals on the ground floor with accommodation for people above.
Despite being in Spain, linguistically and culturally Valcarlos has more in common with the French Basque Country than with the Spanish Province of Navarra.
HISTORY: This is the valley where Charlemagne was encamped when he heard of the defeat of Ronald at the Battle of Roncesvalles. El Puerto de Ibañeta is where Charlemagne crossed the Pyrenees to begin his attempted liberation of Spain. At a place called la Croix de Charles, he is said to have fallen to his knees and prayed, his face turned towards Galicia. Today pilgrims often put a small cross in the ground there. This route became popular during the 14th century due to the construction of pilgrim hostels along its length and the fact that it is easier than the other route. However, in modern times the other (prettier) route has become far more popular.
Off-road parts of this route may be difficult in snow in which case it's advisable to follow the main road.
Ascending 800m to the Pass/Puerto de Ibañeta (altitude 1057m) and descending 100m to arrive in Roncesvalles after 12km / 3 hours from Valcarlos (allow extra time for the ascent).
SIGHTS: At the top of the Puerto de Ibañeta is a monument to Ronald (Roldán in Spanish) and the Battle of Roncescalles (778) and a small modern chapel. In medieval times there was also a small chapel here which was attended by a monk who would ring the chapel bell during times of fog or snow to guide pilgrims who had gotten lost in the woods.
Left route (Route Napoléon) 26km / 6½ hours
This route is also known as le Port de Cize. Ascends 300m to...
4km / 1 hr to Honto / Hontto
Private hostel (22, €14) Auberge Ferme Ithurburia to the left of the Camino. They have a café and do an evening meal and breakfast. It's advisable to reserve 05 59 37 11 17.
Ascends 250m to...
3km / ¾ hr to Orisson
Private hostel (18, 30€ with evening meal and breakfast) Refuge Orisson. It's advisable to reserve in advance. They also do an evening meal. Telephone 05 59 49 13 03 or mobile 06 81 49 79 56 website: www.refuge-orisson.com Their café does snacks during the day. During peak times they rent spaces in tents.
SIGHTS: About 8km after Orisson, at a place called Pic d'Hostatéguy, you'll pass the statue of La Vierge du Chemin with (weather permitting) panoramic views of the western Pyrenees.
Ascends 650m to the summit (altitude 1550m) before descending 500m to Roncesvalles.
Entering Spain and Navarra
HISTORY: This route was the original Roman road from Bordeaux to Astorga. It was also the original route of the Camino although, due in part to its strenuousness, it lost in popularity to the Valcarlos route during the late middle-ages.
There are two options when descending into Roncesvalles, the one to the left is quite a steep descent through the forest, while the one to the right is slightly longer, descending more gently along a gravel road, via the church at Puerto de Ibañeta.
19km / 4¾ hours to Roncesvalles from Orisson (allow extra time for the ascent).
Left and right route rejoin in...
Roncesvalles / Roncevaux / Orreaga
Ronces, prickly shrub common in this area, valle / valley. Alternatively, the Spanish version could have evolved from the Basque term Errozaval / flat land near the (river) Erro. Errozaval became Roncesvals which in turn became Roncesvalles. Its current name in Basque is Orreaga / Place of Junipers.
Monastery hostel (183, 10€) Albergue de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles in a newly renovated part of the monastery, opened in March 2011. Kitchen, laundry facilities, internet. Opens at 1300. Stupendous, modern facilities. The old Albergue Itzandegia (which has perfectly adequate facilities) will still be used as an overflow.
INFO: Everything is grouped around the monastery. The Pilgrims' Office / Oficina de Información al Peregrino is through one of the doors to the right of the main entrance to the monastery. They can give you a Credencial. Tourist Information in the old mill, left of the main entrance to the monastery. There is a special blessing for pilgrims during the final mass which starts at 2000 Monday to Friday and 1800 at weekends.
GASTRONOMY: Three restaurants do Pilgrim Menus. During busy periods these restaurants operate an unusual system, you're supposed to go to the restaurant of your choice earlier in the evening to reserve for a specific time and to pay. The local trout speciality is usually on offer.
SIGHTS: The monastery has several churches. The one most in use today is the Iglesia de la Real Colegiata de Santa María which dates from the 13th century. It was built by Sancho VII (el Fuerte/the Strong), whose tomb lies within, in a Gothic style, similar to Notre Dame de Paris. Above its main alter is the beautiful statue of La Virgen de Orreaga. To one side is a statue of Santiago Peregrino. It contains a number of historic objects, including Charlemagne's chess board. It was largely reconstructed having been damaged in several fires and today its interior shows strong Baroque influences. The Capilla de Sancti Spiritus or Silo de Carlomagno, on the main road beside the hotel, dates from the 12th century and is probably the oldest construction in Roncesvalles. It is an octagonal funeral chapel where masses were traditionally said for pilgrims who died in the monastery's hospital. Beside it is the small Gothic Iglesia de Santiago or Iglesia de los Peregrinos which was reconstructed during the 20th century having been allowed to fall into ruins. Today it houses the bell which previously used to guide pilgrims to the Puerto de Ibañeta. There is also a Museum containing many historic objects related to the Camino.
Often referred to as a village, Roncesvalles consists of little more than a (mostly disused) monastery surrounded by a number of establishments which cater to passing pilgrims and tourists. It has a permanent population of about 25. The village referred to in historical documents is actually Burguete, 3km down the Camino.
HISTORY: Throughout history this has been a natural arrival point in the Iberian peninsula for travellers crossing the Ibañeta Pass and has seen waves of invaders including Celts, Barbarians and Goths. The Romans built a road through here linking Gaul and Hispania.
This was the scene of the famous Battle of Roncesvalles where in 778 the rearguard of Charlemagne's army, commanded by Ronald, was attacked and defeated by a Basque force which made off with the gold they were transporting. This is the battle referred to in the song La Chanson de Roland, which claims the attackers were Moors.
Roncesvalles belonged for a time to the monastery of Sainte-Foy de Conques on the Chemin du Puy. There's been a refuge for pilgrims here since the earliest days of the Camino. The old (closed in 2010) pilgrim hostel is believed to be on the site of the monastery's funeral chapel. In medieval times pilgrims could stay for three days in bad weather in order to give them time to recover from the hardships of the Pyrenees. While here, they could avail of the services on offer, such as beard trimming, foot washing and, if they were feeling plush, a bath!
SIGHTS: The forest of Sorgintzaren, between Roncesvalles and Burguete, is reputed to have been the base of a coven of witches in the 16th century. Leading to nine people being sentenced to burn at the stake by the Inquisition. Rumours of witchcraft were widespread throughout northern Navarra at that time. Burguete features in Earnest Hemingway's novel The Sun Also Rises.
3km / ¾ hour to Burguete several cafés on the main street and off it but signposted, one where the Camino turns right, another one (also a bakery) is a little further on (after the Camino turns right), open for breakfast. Several guesthouses, a bank and a pharmacy.
The Camino takes an abrupt right turn at the red Santander sign. Then it's 3km / ¾ hour to Espinal, café, bakery and shop on the main street. 6km to Viskarret, café on main square, shop on your left when leaving the village. 2km / ½ hour to Linzoain where there's a community café which seems to only open in the evenings.
Parts of this stretch have been 'improved' by being turned into a concrete path making it tiring to walk on and impossible in icy weather.
9km / 2¼ hours from Linzoain and 300m descent into the valley of the river Arre which you will follow as far as Villava.
22km / 5½ hrs to Zubiri
Zubi / bridge, iri / village. Basque.
Private
hostel (24, 10€, March to October) Albergue
Zaldiko,
on the right after you cross the bridge to enter the
village.
Private
hostel (57, 15€ with breakfast, March to November) El
Palo de Avellano.
From the bridge, continue straight to the church and turn right on to
the main road, Avenida de Roncesvalles, the hostel is on the right.
Laundry facilities. They do an evening meal.
Municipal
hostel (52, 6€) Albergue
de Peregrinos de Zubiri.
Continue alone Avenida de Roncesvalles and it’s on your left after
about 200m. Kitchen, coin-operated internet and coffee machine. If
locked call 628 324 186.
INFO: There's a small shop between the church and the bridge (ask here for alternative accommodation) and a hostel and guesthouse on the main road. There's another shop on a street near the river. You might also be able to use the swimming pool in the sports centre.
Bar Baserri, on the square in front of the church does a good Pilgrim Menu as does the restaurant, Gau Txori. To get to Gau Txori continue straight from the municipal hostel, away from the village, for about 400m until you reach a major road junction, it's opposite. The cafeteria in the sports centre Polideportivo may also do a Pilgrim Menu. You'll pass it on the way from the municipal hostel to Gau Txori.
SIGHTS: Entering the village you will cross the Puente de la Rabia, or Rabies Bridge, so named because of the belief, once common locally, that herding animals around its main pillar three times would cure them of rabies. The origin or this belief appears to come from the belief that a local saint Santa Quiteria was buried beneath the bridge.
The Camino turns left just before the bridge and doesn't actually enter Zubiri. It's a couple of kilometres shorter to Larrasoaña if you walk along the main road. Advisable after wet weather. Either way the valley is scarred by a massive magnesium processing plant.
The Camino by-passes Larrasoaña. If you want to visit the village you'll have to cross the river.
5km / 1¼ hrs to Larrasoaña
Municipal hostel (72, 6€) Albergue de peregrinos del Concejo de Larrasoaña on Calle San Nicolás. Near the church. Kitchen, laundry facilities. (very) Mixed reports. November 2011 - reports that this hostel has closed for long-overdue refurbishment.
INFO: A café in the village may do meals and sells some groceries, irregular opening hours. If you follow the main road north for about 1km there's a good restaurant on the left.
SIGHTS: Larrasoaña is considered a good example of a pueblo calle, having a layout, typical in this region, where the village was built around a main street lined by tall houses, rather than developing haphazardly around a church or monastery. The objective of this form of urban planning was to encourage a nucleus of economic activity in the centre of the village. There are some beautiful examples of typical Basque houses. The village church, Iglesia de San Nicolás, is Baroque.
Again the main road offers a shorter alternative towards Trinidad de Arre, if you choose to walk on the road be careful not to miss the place where the Camino crosses below the church of Zabadalika (this has changed recently).
SIGHTS: The 13th century Romanesque church of San Esteban/St Stephan in Zabaldika lies on the new Camino route at the top of a steep hill. The church itself is 13th century. The main alter is 17th century with polychrome painting typical of the region around Pamplona. It features the Virgin Mary and St Stephan in its centre flanked by other saints. A spiral staircase leads to the tower where the smaller of the two bells was made in 1377 and is believed to be the oldest surviving in Navarra. The nuns don't mind if you ring them!
Huarte is about 1500m off the Camino following the river.
Municipal hostel (60, 6€, April to September) Albergue Municipal de Huarte in Huarte which is about 1500m off the Camino. After the picnic area, instead of climbing the hill continue following the river until you come to Huarte, from there it's signposted. Laundry facilities, kitchen. The town of Huarte has all facilities. Ask in the hostel for directions back to the Camino.
11km / 2¾ hrs to Villava
Villava is Latin Villanova / new town. Trinity of Arre, Arre being the the name of the river.
Parish
hostel (36, 6€) Hermanos
Maristas / Trinidad de Arre in
the building on your right as you cross the bridge over the river
Ultzama. Kitchen. The hostel is in a beautiful, old building and has
a nice, enclosed garden. They encourage you to eat at a restaurant
beside the Municipal Hostel where the food is mediocre.
Municipal
hostel (48, 14€ with breakfast, mid-january to Christmas) in
Villava on Calle Atarrabia, to the left after crossing the bridge.
Laundry facilities, microwaves.
INFO: On the Camino through Villava there are shops and several cafés, which open for breakfast, a bank, a pharmacy and a municipal swimming pool.
SIGHTS: The bridge you cross to enter to reach the hostel at Trinidad de Arre was built in the 13th century and has six segmental arches. The church in the hostel is the Santísima Trinidad and is in Romanesque style.
Villava is the birthplace of the famous cyclist Miguel Indurain who in 1995 became the first person to win the Tour de France five times in a row.
In Trinidad de Arre another route called the Camino de Baztán joins the Camino Francés. The Camino de Baztán starts at the cathedral in Bayonne and takes about six days to arrive at this point. It is fully waymarked and there are a number of pilgrim hostels and other accommodation available. A free guide to it is available from www.caminoguide.net
It's suburban streets from here to Pamplona. All services available. There are a number of possible ways to enter the city, the most popular crosses Puente de la Magdalena. When you come to the river (just after a roundabout with a fountain in the middle) turn right along a footpath at the side of the river which you follow straight until you see a 'zig-zag' bridge, which is the quickest way to Casa Paderborn or continue straight along the riverbank to Puente de la Magdalena.
4km / 1 hr to Pamplona / Iruña
Pompaelo Latin, after the city's founder the Roman General Pompey. Its Basque name, Iruña means simply the town.
Private
hostel (26, 5€, April to October) Casa
Paderborn,
run by German volunteers. Beside the river, turn left immediately
after Puente de la Magdalena. Garden.
Municipal
hostel (114, 5€, 16 January to 23 December, closed during San
Fermín) Jesús
y María on
Calle Compañía near the cathedral. Kitchen. This hostel replaces
the old one near the Ayuntamiento. Since April 2010 it is under the
management of Aspace, an organisation which offers employment to
people with special needs.
Youth
hostel (96, 5€, Easter and 15 July to 15 September) Albergue
Juvenil Fuerte del Príncipe.
On Calle Goroabe, a little off the Camino. Laundry facilities and
kitchen.
Private
Hostel (30, 19€ including breakfast and towels) Hostel
Hemingway on
Calle Amaia 26 in the new city not far past the bullring. Kitchen,
internet and Wifi, laundry facilities. This hostel is open to
everybody but this price applies to pilgrims with a Credencial. Tel
948 983 884 Web www.hostelhemingway.com
INFO: Pamplona, with a population of 197,000, is the most populous city on the Camino Francés. Tourist Information on Plaza San Francisco gives out free maps of the city with the route of the Camino marked on it. Locutoria/Call Shop (where you can buy a SIM card): Los Arcos on Plaza del Castillo or in the back of an African grocery shop down Calle de Javier on the east side of the plaza (English spoken). Internet on Calle Curia. If you need to forward excess luggage there's a Post Office Correos on Paseo Sarasate, just south west of Plaza del Castillo, open Monday to Friday 0830 to 2030 and Saturday 0930 to 1400. Fiestas Sanduzelai 23 April, San Marcos 23 April, La Txantrea 27 April, Iturrama/La Rochapea 10 June, Azpilagaña 24 June, the famous running of the bulls / encierro takes place here during the San Fermín festival from 7 to 14 July. During this time this otherwise pleasant and beautiful city becomes something resembling Backpacker Hell. Free WiFi on Plaza del Castillo.
SIGHTS: The ayuntamiento is on the Camino as it passes through the city. It dates from the mid-18th century and has an ornate Baroque façade. To visit the elegant Plaza del Castillo take a left off the Camino on to Calle de Chapitela and walk up the street about 50m.
Pamplona Cathedral is a little off the Camino to the left. The site of the Cathedral has a long history dating back to the foundation of the city by the Roman General Pompey in 74BC. The present cathedral was completed in 1501. It was built on the foundations of several earlier churches which either were destroyed in warfare or simply collapsed. It was originally entirely Gothic in style, both inside and out, however a neo-Classical western façade, which was completed in the 18th century, now covers the original Gothic façade. Inside it contains at its centre the mausoleum of King Carlos III 'the Noble' and his wife Leonora de Trastamara, and, on its main alter, the 12th century wood carving of Santa María la Real. A door from the cathedral gives access to the cloister which was built in 1375 (hence pre-dating the current cathedral) and is considered one of the finest examples of a Gothic cloister in Spain. The north tower contains a twelve tonne bell called Maria which is the largest bell in regular use in Spain. The Cathedral Museum adjoins the cloister. Among other objects on display it includes carvings of medieval musical instruments which are reminiscent of the carvings on the Portica de la Gloria in Santiago. Cathedral, cloister and museum 2€ with Credencial. It opens at 1000 and closes at 1900 in summer and 1700 in winter.
The Gothic 12th century Church of San Cernin (also known as San Saturnino) on the Camino just past the ayuntamento is where San Fermin was baptised. The 12th century fortified church of San Nicolás has both Romanesque and Gothic elements. It houses an enormous Baroque organ. The Museum of Navarra / Museo de Navarra on Calle Santo Domingo has a good collection of historical artefacts from the region. Admission 2€. On the Camino just outside the centre you will pass on your left the Citadel which dates from the 16th century and replaced a fortress which originally stood on the Plaza del Castillo as the city's main defence.
Further out near the edge of the city you will pass through the campus of the private University of Navarra which was founded by Josemaría Escrivá de Balaguer who also founded Opus Dei. If you want to gain an insight into this organisation you can make a short detour to visit the statue of La Virgen del Camino. Turn right off the Camino when you see the CIMA building and, crossing the major road junction, pass between CIMA and the building to its right and continue for 200m until there's a footpath going down to the left, follow this and you'll pass the grotto on your right. To rejoin the Camino just continue on this path down the hill.
GASTRONOMY: Pamplona is a good place to sample typical Navarrean cuisine, such as Bacalao al Ajoarriero which is cod, cut into small pieces and cooked with tomatoes, garlic, onions, peppers and potatoes. Also worth trying is Alcachofas con Almejas / Artichokes with Clams. Or the vegetarian Borraja con Patata / Borage with Potatoes. Several restaurants on Calle San Nicolás, just west of Plaza del Castillo, do regional specialities and also have cheap menús del día.
Café Iruña on Plaza del Castillo is a good place for coffee or tapas or a menú del día.
HISTORY: The city of Pompaelo was founded on the site of the Basque village of Iruña in 74BC by the Roman General Pompey (Pompeyo Magno). The Romans had good relations with the native Basques and introduced advanced urban planning and agricultural techniques to the region. Their successors, the Visigoths, found relations with the natives more difficult when they arrived in the 4th century, but nevertheless maintained a presence here for several centuries. Muslims from al-Andaluz also settled in this region but never established a significant presence.
After the 12th century, largely because of the Camino, the city became home to large number of settlers from France and was divided into three segregated burgos, or boroughs, for the Franks (San Cernin and San Nicolás) and Basques (Navarrería). The different political allegiances of the different groups led to frequent violent clashes until King Carlos III 'the Noble' abolished the boroughs and had the walls separating them torn down.
The city continued to develop within its original walls until the 19th century when the southern walls were demolished and work began on the construction of the modern city with wide straight streets. The medieval street layout can still be seen in parts of the old city.
Today Pamplona is a prosperous city and the capital of the Autonomous Community of Navarra with a per capita income well above the Spanish average.
If you get lost leaving Pamplona head for the Ciudadela fortress and the corner of Avenida del Ejército and Avenida del Pio XII. The path through the park is the Camino. It's clearly marked. Follow it out of the park on to Calle de la Fuente del Hierro.
SIGHTS: The land between Pamplona and Cizur Menor is the site of the mythical battle between Charlemagne and the giant Muslim leader Aigolando which raged for days ending in a victory for Charlemagne and the death of a hundred thousand Muslims.
5km / 1¼ hrs to Cizur Menor
Smaller Cizur as opposed to neighbouring Mayor / Greater. Cizur is a hispanisation of the Basque name Zizur which is related to the word zintzur / narrow gap between mountains.
Order
of Malta hostel (27, 5€, June to September) Albergue
Sanjuanista beside
the church on your left as you enter the village. Kitchen.
Private
hostel (52, 7€) Albergue
Roncal a
little further up, turn right at the crossroads. Nice garden,
kitchen, internet, vending machines for coffee, drinks and snacks.
INFO: The restaurant Asador El Tremendo in the hotel at the crossroads does a Pilgrim Menu. There's a small shop with limited stock on the Camino in the village. Fiestas Exaltación de la Santa Cruz 14 September, San Andrés Apóstol 30 November.
SIGHTS: Cizur Menor has had been a base for the Knights Hospitaliers and the Order of Malta since the 12th century and there has been a pilgrim hostel here since the 13th. The original Hospitalier monastery is now the pilgrim hostel run by the Order of Malta. The Romanesque church Iglesia de San Miguel Arcángelo dates from the 13th century. It is a fortress church. On your way out you'll pass the village frontón which is a two-sided concrete enclosure used to play a Basque ball game called pelota which involves hitting a ball against the end wall using a curved, scoop-like stick. It's the fastest (non team sport) ballgame in the world. A type of handball is also played.
Ascends 350m and descends 250m over the next 12km.
6km / 1½ hrs to Zariquiegui / Zarikiegi
Private hostel (16, 10€ with breakfast, Easter to September) El Albergue de Zariquiegui on Calle San Andrés. Laundry facilities, microwaves, internet. Run by a friendly Spanish lady who provides TV-dinner type evening meals.
SIGHTS: The village has some beautiful examples of local architecture. The village church, Iglesia de San Andrés, was originally of 12th century Romanesque build however today only the south entrance is original. If you're staying here the hostel owner may be able to open if for you. Apparently it's worth seeing.
There are sometimes refreshments for sale at the top of the hill.
SIGHTS: Shortly before you reach the peak of the Alto del Perdón, with the windmills towering above you like something from a modern-day Don Quijote, you'll pass a drinking fountain on your left. This is where, according to legend, the devil appeared to a parched pilgrim and offered to buy his soul for a drink of water. The pilgrim, no doubt having weighed up his options decided, in view of the unspeakable (and eternal) horrors that awaited him in hell, that he could probably manage another while without a drink and politely declined. Whereupon, in a blinding flash of light, St James himself appeared and striking the ground with his staff, brought forth a raging torrent of fresh water. Thus saving the pilgrim from a thirsty walk to the next village.
Today, unfortunately, of that raging torrent, only a trickle remains.
The peak of Alto del Perdón has fantastic views of the route already travelled and the adventures yet to come. At the top is a flat, cut-out sculpture of medieval pilgrims on their way to Santiago. The inscription reads:
Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas
Where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars
Observe how the vegetation suddenly changes from northern European to Mediterranean as you descend from the Alto del Perdón. Soon you'll begin to see vines growing beside the Camino.
Descends 250m, on loose gravel which must be tackled with care, to...
6km / 1½ hrs to Uterga
Private hostel (18, 10€, March to October) Camino del Perdón on the left. Café and restaurant with Pilgrim Menu downstairs. Friendly hostel with good food.
INFO: Fresh drinking water from the village drinking font (although dry in July 2011) and drinks from vending machines.
2km / ½ hour to Muruzábal, café / restaurant. Here you can go right to go straight to Óbanos or left to visit Eunate.
Right route 2km / ½ hour straight to Óbanos or Left route 5km to Óbanos via Eunate
2km / ½ hr to Eunate
Religious Hostel (12, donativo, January to November) Santa María de Eunate. Right beside the church. Also evening meal and breakfast. Pilgrim blessing in the church in the evening.
INFO: The church at Eunate is closed on Mondays and during the month of December. Otherwise it's open: January, February and November 1030 to 1430; March, April, May, June and October 1030 to 1330 and 1600 to 1900; July, August and September 1030 to 1330 and 1700 to 2000. Entry is free.
SIGHTS: The church of La Ermita Santa Maria de Eunate, to give it its proper name (ermita means hermitage), was built in the 12th century. Its location in open country and close to the meeting of two Caminos, suggests it was intended primarily for pilgrims, however, little is know for certain about its history. It is octagonal in shape surrounded by an external gallery of 33 arches. Its shape has provoked speculations about a connection with the Knights Templar. The presence of stairs giving access to the roof suggests it was a funeral chapel because of the tradition of placing a lantern there during the funeral. The stonemasons who worked on the church left carved symbols to identify their handiwork. See if you can spot them.
Eunate is the point where the Camino Aragonés, which enters Spain over the Col de Somport, joins the Camino Francés.
A guide to the Camino Aragonés is available from www.caminoguide.net
3km / ¾ hour to Óbanos
Óbanos
Private hostel (36, 5€, April to October) Albergue Usda. Near the church, signposted from the Camino. Kitchen with microwave and a courtyard with a fig tree.
INFO: Two restaurants with Pilgrim Menus, one opposite the hostel and another on a nearby street corner. Bakery and shop on the square in front of the church.
SIGHTS: The mystery of Óbanos is re-enacted by local people in full costume biennially in July of even years (ie. 2008, 2010, etc) for eight days from the Saturday preceding St James' Day (25 July). The hermitage at Arnotegui can be visited. It sits on a hilltop about 3km south-west of the village. The road up is signposted from the main road. The handsome neo-Gothic church which overlooks the village square was completed in 1912.
HISTORY: Óbanos is the setting of a Camino legend dating from the 14th century. At that time the daughter of the king and queen of Aquitaine, Felica, decided to follow the family tradition of going on pilgrimage to Santiago. She returned some time later so filled with piousness and religious fervour that she was unable to settle back into the life of idleness and privilege that befitted one of her station and instead, leaving it all behind, set off to live an anonymous life of service to others.
Her family, needless to say, were outraged by this and sent her brother Guillén to track her down. He found her, after much searching, in Óbanos and when his efforts to persuade her to return to their family home proved to be for nought, flew into such a rage that he killed her with his dagger.
Having killed his sister in such a cruel manner Guillén was racked with guilt and as a penance decided to follow in her footsteps to Santiago. While there, he in his turn saw the light and decided to dedicate the remainder of his life to poverty and charity. On his return to Óbanos he built a hermitage on a nearby peak called Arnotegui where he lived out his days as a hermit dedicated to prayer and helping passing pilgrims.
There are two routes to get to Puente la Reina. Leaving Óbanos there are steps down to the left, you can go that way or continue straight ahead. For Albergue Jakue go straight ahead parallel to the road.
3km / ¾ hr to Puente la Reina / Gares
Bridge of the Queen. Gares is believed to be related to the Basque word for grain. The exact identity of the queen in its name is unsure however, the bridge itself dates from the 11th century.
Private
hostel (92, 9€, April to September) Albergue/Hotel
Jakue on
the side of the main road into town. In the basement of a hotel with
café and restaurant. Newly renovated. Kitchen, laundry facilities,
free WiFi. Excellent, eat-all-you-can buffet-style evening meal 11€.
Also breakfast.
Religious
hostel (100, 5€) Padres
Reparadores,
near the church as you enter the town. Kitchen, garden, laundry
facilities.
Private
hostel (100, 8€) Santiago
Apóstol straight
up the hill after you cross the bridge leaving town. Café. Swimming
pool in summer. Evening meal 8€. Breakfast 4€. Laundry
facilities. Spacious dorms.
INFO: The Camino passes along Calle Mayor where you will find a café / bakery on your left which is open for breakfast, several cafés and restaurants which do Pilgrim Menus and several shops. Banks and more cafés on the main road. The town festival is the last weekend in September and involves a certain amount of livestock-related mayhem.
SIGHTS: Puente la Reina is another example of a pueblo calle. At the beginning of the town is the Iglesia del Crucifijo, previously known as Santa María de las Huertas, and built by the Knights Templars in the 12th century. Its current name comes from a Y-shaped crucifix which was carried here by German pilgrims in the 14th century. The church Parroquia de Santiago on Calle Mayor has a magnificent 12th century Romanesque entrance with five archivolts, believed, because of their similarity, to have been constructed by the same builder who built the church of San Roman in Cirauqui and San Pedro de la Rúa in Estella. Inside is a famous Gothic statue of Santiago know as Beltza, Basque for black. Down a street to the left just before the bridge is the 18th century Iglesia de San Pedro Apóstol which houses a statue of the Virgin of Puy known locally as Txori. (See below) The Romanesque footbridge at the end of the town dates from the 11th century.
There is evidence of settlement locally from pre-historic times but the modern town dates from around the 11th century. The development of the town is largely due to its location near an important point on the road to Santiago where two branches of the Camino meet.
The town was repopulated with people from further north during the Reconquista and at one time had a sufficiently large Jewish population to support a synagogue.
The legend of Txori, which is Basque for bird, dates from the Carlist wars, when a bird was seen cleaning the face of the statue of the Virgin of Puy which at that time was in a small chapel on the bridge.
This is still culturally a Basque region and although the language had died out entirely by the beginning of the 20th century, it is today undergoing something of a revival thanks to local policies designed to promote regional languages.
HISTORY: Puente is mentioned in the opening lines of book five of the Codex Calixtinus :
Quatuor viæ sunt, quæ ad sanctum Jacobum tendentes, in unum, ad Pontem Reginæ, in oris Hispaniæ, coadunantur.
There are four ways which lead to Holy St James and they become one near Puente La Reina in Spain.
There's one quite steep climb on this bit.
5km / 1¼ hrs to Mañeru
Private Hostel (12, 10€ including breakfast, may not be open in winter) Lurgorri on Calle de Esperanza. Kitchen.
INFO: There's a café and a shop in the village.
3km / ¾ hr to Cirauqui
Ziroki in Basque. Zir / high ground, oki / place. Or nest of vipers, according to other sources.
Private hostel (28, 10€, mid-January to mid-December) Maralotx behind the church. Kitchen, laundry facilities. They do dinner for 10€. Excellent reports.
INFO: Bakery, bank and shop on Camino.
SIGHTS: Cirauqui is a beautiful hill-top village. The highest part is the oldest and the path of the old town wall can still be discerned in the street-scape. There are some fine examples of Gothic arches. The church of San Roman is of medieval origin although it has undergone substantial modification which can be clearly seen from the exterior. Its entrance is a good example of the fusion of Muslim, Romanesque and Cistercian influences. The church of Santa Catalina has a beautiful entrance dating from the 13th century with a pointed arch and eight archivolts on pedestals. The door itself is arched with monstrous carved figures.
Leaving Cirauqui the Camino passes over a bridge dating from the Roman era. This part of the Camino mostly follows a Roman road which in places is visible. This was a secondary road, the main Bordeaux to Astorga road ran to the north of here.
This region has several despoblados or abandoned villages. Between Cirauqui and Lorca you will pass through the village of Urbe which once covered 20km² on both sides of the Roman road. Today only the ruins of the church remain.
It's here also that vines and olive trees begin to appear, marking the transition from the more humid and cold northern climate to the warmer and dryer Mediterranean climate.
6 km / 1½ hrs to Lorca
Private
hostel (14, 7€, Easter to mid-October) Albergue
de Lorca on
the right. Has a café downstairs, laundry facilities, kitchen and
free internet. They do a pilgrim menu.
Private
hostel (36, 8€, April to October) La
Bodega del Camino on
the left. Friendly café and restaurant downstairs does a pilgrim
menu. Laundry facilities, internet, massages.
INFO: Both hostels have cafés. Drinking fountain beside the playground on the left. Leaving the village on the left there are vending machines selling cold drinks and snacks much cheaper than in the cafés in the village.
5km / 1¼ hrs to Villatuerta
Private hostel (40, 10€ with breakfast) Albergue de Peregrinos de Villatuerta or La Casa Mágica on Calle Rebote to the right of the Camino in a beautiful newly renovated building. Kitchen, internet and laundry facilities. Massages also available. Welcoming, laid-back, make-yourself-at-home atmosphere.
INFO: The café of the sports centre entering the village and Bar Rebote do food. Also a bakery and a bank in the village. The town festival is the Fiesta a la Virgen on 15 August.
SIGHTS: The 14th century Iglesia de la Asunción is Gothic with a 15th century alter. After Villatuerta you will pass the ruins of the Ermita de San Miguel dating from the 10th or 11th century. Today only part of the nave of the church remains. Sculptures from here can be seen in the Museum of Navarra in Pamplona. There is a new underpass under the main road just before Estella which means that you miss the monument to the Canadian pilgrim who was run over and killed here.
3km / ¾ hr to Estella / Lizarra
From stellae / star in Latin. Lizarra, is generally thought to come from the Basque word lizar / ashtree (Spanish fresno).
Municipal
hostel (104, 7€ with breakfast, generally closes mid-December to
mid-January) Albergue
de Peregrinos de Estella on
your left as you enter the town. Kitchen, laundry facilities,
internet. The breakfast isn’t great and the hospitaleros have a
reputation for rudeness (although 2012 reports suggest it is now
under new management - updates please!)
Parish
hostel (30, donativo) Albergue
Parroquial San Miguel.
Turn right over the bridge just before entering the town and follow
the signs. Kitchen, internet. Good reports.
Private
hostel (30, 5€ with breakfast, June to September) ANFAS run
by a local association for persons with special needs. On Calle
Cordeleros. Turn right over the bridge just before entering the town
and follow the signs. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Good
reports.
Youth
hostel (120, 12€, April to October) Albergue
Juvenil Oncineda continue
straight from the Municipal until you come to a roundabout, the
hostel is at the end of Calle del Mosaterio de Irache which is to
your right. Kitchen and laundry facilities. They may do dinner and
breakfast.
INFO: Estella is a big town with all services available. There are several restaurants on the main square. The restaurant Alday just across the hump-backed bridge from the municipal does a good Pilgrim Menu and a café / bakery on Calle Julio Ruiz de Alda is open for breakfast. There's a Tourist Information on Calle San Nicolas straight on from the municipal hostel. Fiestas Patronales 2 August, San Andrés 30 November.
SIGHTS: On your left just before entering the town is the magnificent Iglesia Parroquial del Santo Sepulcro which was originally built in the 12th century although its façade is 16th century Gothic. Above the main door are sculptures representing: on the top row, the crucifixion; on the middle row, the three Marys at the sepulchre, the rescue of the innocents and the moment when Mary Magdalene recognised Jesus after his resurrection; and on the bottom row the last supper. Above the door on either side are the twelve apostles with St James and St Martin of Tour closest to the door. The Church of San Pedro de la Rúa at the top of a formidable flight of steps to the left of the Camino has a main entrance very similar to the churches we've already seen in Cirauqui and Puente la Reina. It's built on the site of an earlier fortress. Part of its original cloister has survived. It is traditionally believed to be the tomb of a Greek bishop who died on his way to Santiago carrying sacred relics. It opens for visitors half an hour before mass times. The Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra on Plaza San Martin (which was the centre of the Frankish quarter) just off Calle San Nicolas is a Romanesque building dating from the 12th century. It is the only example of civil Romanesque architecture in Navarra. To the left of the gallery of four arches, at the top of a pillar, are carving depicting Roldán's battle with the giant Ferragut. The building now houses an art gallery and Tourist Information.
GASTRONOMY: Estella is a major wine producing centre in the wine region of southern Navarra known as Tierra Estella. This region may suffer from proximity to its better-known neighbour La Rioja, however, Navarran wines shouldn't be discounted. Until recently this region was known almost exclusively for its rosés, but now its whites and reds are equally prized. A small label on the reverse of the bottle gives information about the wine's classification.
HISTORY: Estella is another town which owes its existence to the Camino. It originally dates from about 1090, when it was founded by Sancho Ramírez, then king of Arragon. To attract Frankish settlers he granted them the right to sell to passing pilgrims. Soon the town was thriving with Camino-related commerce and attracted many more settlers from among those who passed through. Occitan was still spoken here until the 14th century.
There was also a large number of Jewish settlers who had their own walled neighbourhood from 1135 until their expulsion from Navarra in 1498. They were permitted to practise the trades of dyer, baker, butcher, silversmith and painter, although they were also present in shopkeeping and trading.
A star figures prominently in Estella's coat of arms. Presumably because of its name. The town is sometimes referred to as Estella la Bella for its beauty.
2km / ½ hr to Ayegui
Municipal hostel (80, 6€) Albergue San Cipriano. On Calle Polideportivo, in the sports centre. Evening meal 9€ and breakfast 3€. Good reports.
INFO: Cafés, shops and bakery nearby. Fiestas San Cipriano 10 September.
1km / ¼ hour to Irache where you can stock up on free wine.
SIGHTS: Yes, it's true, Bodegas Irache allow you to fill your waterbottles with something a little more heart-warming and mirthful than water! The magical tap is on your right as you walk up the hill past the bodega. The magical tap has been know to run dry, especially at busy times, so the earlier you make it there the better chance you have of being able to quench that raging thirst. As an additional treat the whole scene is broadcast live on the internet via their website. See: www.irache.com
The vineyard at Irache has existed at least since the 12th century and its history is closely linked to the nearby Monastery of Irache. It has existed in its modern form as Bodegas Irache since 1891.
There is also a wine museum opposite.
The inscription on the wine fountain reads:
Peregrino si quieres llegar a Santiago con fuerza y vitalidad de este gran vino echa un trago y brinda por la felicidad!
Pilgrim, if you want to arrive in Santiago with strength and vitality drink a mouthful of this great wine and overflow with happiness!
SIGHTS: The 12th century monastery of Irache is now a museum. It's on the left up the hill from Bodegas Irache. Its Renaissance/Plateresque cloister is unusual in having being partially constructed before the Council of Trent (which marked the beginning of the Counter-Reformation ) and completed afterwards. As a result half of it is decorated with classical themes (featuring nudity) and the other half is decorated with purely religious themes. Similar to Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel in Rome, where the naked figures had clothes painted on them.
HISTORY: There has been a monastery here since 958 and the first pilgrim hospital opened in 1050. According to a local legend, San Veremundo, when still a young boy and in the employ of the monastery, used to sneak food to pilgrims staying there hidden under his robes, in order to supplement the meagre offerings they were expected to content with. Once, when he was challenged by the abbot about what he was hiding under his robes he replied firewood and when made to reveal what it was, the food miraculously turned into firewood!
In the lead-up to the civil war the monks allowed the monastery to be used for meetings of conspirators plotting the overthrow of the democratically elected government.